Sargent Lake from Greenstone Ridge Trail

The Greenstone Ridge inspired expansive views of Isle Royale, surrounded by the rough waters of Lake Superior. These romantic visions were reinforced based on the surroundings along the Daisy Farm Trail as I approach the intersection with the trail bearing its name.

What I got when I arrive is trees. Not a mature forest, mind you, but enough to make a closed canopy, which provides some relief from the increasingly hot sun. Although welcome, this relief is not the breathtaking views I anticipated. Hopefully, the views are yet to come along the trail, otherwise I may not feel this trail lives up to all the hype.

Section Stats:
Date: August 30, 2011
Length: 4.2 miles (6.1 total daily miles; 14.3 total trip miles)
Difficulty: Easy

The Greenstone Ridge is the highest and longest ridge on Isle Royale, traversing the entire island. It is named after chlorastrolite, a stone commonly called greenstone on the island. The ridge runs along the center of the island, acting as the island’s spine, both geographically and as a means of traversing the island. The trail that shares the ridge’s name runs along the ridge from Windigo to Lookout Louise, at the northeast end. This is the most popular trail on the island; consequently it can be very busy during the height of the backpacking season.

The high amount of traffic is apparent based on the amount of bare and compressed ground at the intersection with the Daisy Farm Trail. It appears most people share my idea of stopping for a brief rest after climbing all the way up to the Greenstone Ridge from Daisy Farm Campground via the Daisy Farm Trail. Luckily, the majority of my elevation gain for the day is behind me. This is a good thing, a very good thing since my backpack is still heavy at this early stage of the first half of my trip.

My route now lies along the Greenstone Ridge Trail for the next four miles, until departing along the first intersection with the East Chickenbone Trail toward McCargoe Cove for the night. The map indicates there should be no great climbs or descents until approaching Chickenbone Lake, just rolling elevation changes, and hopefully, plenty of unobstructed and expansive views of Isle Royale.

And I am sure, plenty of trees.

I put an end to my brief rest at the intersection; retrieving my Pinnacle backpack and starting off southwest along the well-trammeled trail. The forest cover, which sheltered me from the sun’s increasingly stronger rays, quickly gives way to a viewpoint, allowing views to both the north and the south. Although some tree tops obscure the view occasionally, it is quite spectacular, especially to the north. The views are enhanced by the perfectly clear sky, with only a slight breeze moving through the tree canopy. The outstanding views are enhanced by both my compact binoculars and the zoom lens on my camera. At least the sky is clear, the sun is shining and there is a slight breeze.

Sargent Lake

A portion of Sargent Lake can be seen off to the west. This large lake sits between my current location and my ultimate destination for the day. Unfortunately, the trail never gets closer than where I am standing now. Visiting this lake might be an idea for a bushwhacking adventure in the future, should I ever return to the island.

The Canadian shoreline is viewable here too. Large ridges are visible, rising above Lake Superior’s shoreline, sometimes appearing as buttes. Although the haze somewhat obscures the view, buildings and other man-made structures are visible along the Canadian shoreline. And that is without the use of my binoculars.

Canada from Greenstone Ridge Trail

A series of open ridges visible to the west from the viewpoint brings the topography of the map to life. There is a clear unobstructed view of one in particular, its gray rock covered with a patchwork of low, green conifer shrubs. At first, I wonder if this could be the Minong Ridge, before realizing that ridge starts at McCargoe Cove, still many miles to the southwest. That ridge will just have to wait until tomorrow.

The view eastward is less impressive, with only slivers of two different lakes visible through the faraway tree canopy. I assume the two lakes are Angleworm Lake and Lake Benson, but I do not take the time to verify my guesses with the use of compass and map. Many more views of Angleworm should be possible later, as the trail follows along the thin and narrow lake for its entire length. Unfortunately, the lake is at the base of the ridge, and I would rather concentrate on getting to McCargoe Cove at this point.

Unnamed Ridge from Greenstone Ridge Trail

It takes considerable effort, but I finally pull myself away from the view, and return to the trail. Immediately, the trail enters a mixed forest with considerable amount of spruce and quaking aspen. The trees are scattered enough to allow a considerable sunlight to penetrate, luckily the breeze keeps it cool and comfortable despite the heavy load on my back. The abundance of paper birch snags suggests a catastrophic storm event in the not too distant past. A dusty cloud of dirt follows me as I hike down the trail through the scattered trees, quickly blown apart by the breeze.

The open nature of the forest canopy allows for a considerable amount of understory and ground cover. It is a rare sight to see any bare ground here, unless it is a rocky outcropping, since the herbaceous vegetation dominates every inch of space in between the scattered shrubs and trees.

Forest along Greenstone Ridge Trail

There is a great diversity of tree sizes along the Greenstone Ridge. From the tall, slender aspens with only a tuft of leaves at their apex, to the plentiful young pyramidal spruces regenerating in the understory, this type of diversity is all but absent from most of upstate New York’s forests.

The dense understory, complete with shrubs, Rubus bushes, tall bracken ferns and other vegetation would make bushwhacking here a very challenging endeavor indeed. Just taking a bearing would be a continuous task, given the difficulty seeing more than a short distance through the forest. After seeing the density of the vegetation so far on Isle Royale, I think I made the right decision not to undertake anything but a trivial amount of bushwhacking on this trip.

Sparse aspen canopy

After descending to the south of Lake Wagejo, the trail began to regain its lost elevation as it climbs atop another ridgeline. The yodel of the common loon penetrating through the dense forest startles me; its presence being incongruous within the dense coniferous forest. Obviously, the wind is carrying the sound from either Lake Wagejo or Angleworm Lake, both of which are located not far off the trail.

The ascent to the top of the next ridge reveals a different forest entirely. Here scrubby red oaks, eastern white pine and northern white cedar mix together, forming an odd association. Many large juniper shrubs lie scattered about; their blue berries abundantly present at the end of many of the shrubs’ twigs.

Three guys pass me on the trail, going in the opposite direction. I exchange the usual trail pleasantries, especially since these are the first people I have seen since leaving Daisy Farm Campground earlier this morning. All three young men are decked out in the newest adventure gear, appearing as models that just walked off the page of some outdoor retailer’s catalog. I wonder if they are enjoying having one of the most heavily used trails on the island nearly all to themselves today as much as I am.

Moose scat

I almost step in what initially appears to be a pile of horse scat at the side of the trail. It is obviously moose scat, although it appears greener and lacking the pellet shape I am use to seeing. Is this what moose scat appears like after a steady diet of succulent aquatic vegetation? Unfortunately, I am no scatologist.

Young saplings appear less common on this current ridge. Occasionally, there are meadow-like areas with scattered pines providing the only shade along the trail. There is much bare rock scattered around as well. The open areas allow for more views off to the south and east. Unfortunately, Lake Superior lies out of sight and only a brief slice of Angleworm Lake can be seen within the tree tops.

With noon come and gone, I decide to stop under the shade of a clump of spruce and white pine trees immediately after a brief view of Angleworm Lake to the south. My light tuna on whole wheat round bread with a smattering of soy mayo is practically inhaled, since I ate almost nothing since breakfast this morning. While recovering from my hurried lunch, the wind picks up and it cools down enough that I actually feel a chill. Whether the chill is due to drop in temperature, or the wind and my stationary manner, I did not know. Perhaps it is just due to the blood rushing to my stomach to digest all the food that appeared there so abruptly.

Greenstone Ridge Trail

Greenstone Ridge Trail

Soon after finishing my lunch, I return to the trail as there is still several more miles to McCargoe Cove. Almost immediately upon hiking the trail, a red squirrel scampers up a large tree within arm’s length. The little thing is very curious, especially when I begin mimicking the typical call of its species. It watches me right side up, then it watches me upside down, as it shows off its climbing skills. Either way it cannot seem to figure me out. Finally, I return to hiking and the little squirrel disappears above me as it climbs up the tree trunk.

Upside down red squirrel

Right side up red squirrel

After lunch, the Greenstone Ridge Trail alternates between semi-open ridge, semi-open aspen forest and a closed mixed forest canopy. The semi-open ridge continues to contain a scattering of scrubby red oaks and white pines, providing a welcome break from the sunshine occasionally. The variety of habitats keeps things interesting as I pick up my pace during the afternoon hours.

The trail arrives at a rock overhang where there are extensive views to the north. Pie Island in Ontario is visible from across Lake Superior, even through the slight haze. Parts of Chickenbone Lake are also visible; I will soon become more intimately familiar with this large lake when I descend down near its shore on the way to MacCargoe Cove. These views to the west and north are a welcome sight, as views in these directions were obscured for most of the way along this portion of the Greenstone Trail.

Canada from Greenstone Ridge

Isle Royale view from Greenstone Ridge Trail

Soon after leaving the rock overhang, the trail takes a sharp, ninety-degree turn and descends steeply off the ridge to the north. After crossing a bog on some planking at the base of the ridge, the trail arrives at the intersection with the East Chickenbone Trail.

The Greenstone Ridge is soon to be a thing of the past for me. Although I may catch glimpses of it while hiking the Minong Trail (starting tomorrow), my boots will not touch “The Greenstone” until my return trip from the other end of the island. For today, there are just a couple more miles of meandering trail between me and my final location for that night at McCargoe Cove. And it is not even three in the afternoon.

Greenstone Ridge Trail

Area around intersection with East Chickenbone Trail

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