Feldtmann Tower

Spending nearly the entire morning evading moose on Rainbow Cove has cost me a considerable amount of available daylight. Making up that amount of time is nearly impossible, but my choices are few as it is imperative I reach Siskiwit Bay campground before the veil of darkness falls. No matter how you cut it, I am going to be rolling in rather late; the chance of getting a shelter is nearly zero.

Upon returning to the intersection with the main trail, I backtrack a little to the Feldtmann Lake campground toilet to take care of some unresolved business. Afterwards, I re-bandage my right heel while changing my socks; the cold morning forcing me to make the jaunt to Rainbow Cove in my fleece socks.

What the?!? Where did the hole in the heel of my fleece socks come from? Well, it looks like a new pair of warm camp socks are going to be in my future.

With the open sores on my right heel covered in Spenco 2nd Skin, I return to the trail and begin my hike to the Feldtmann Tower at the top of the Feldtmann Ridge. After the tower, it is all downhill, figuratively, and somewhat literally, from there to Siskiwit Bay campground, where I will camp for the night.

Date: September 6, 2011
Length: 4.7 miles (7.5 total daily miles; 68.7 total trip miles)
Difficulty: Moderate (steep climb)

For the first mile or so, the trail hugs Feldtmann Lake’s southern shoreline, traveling under a mixed forest of yellow and paper birch, as well as white spruce and northern white cedar. The lake is a stone’s throw to the north at first, but the distance increases as I continue further east. Small tufts of grass border the trail, and occasionally there are moose tracks in the more moist soils.

The forest becomes more open along the far eastern portion of the lake, but then quickly returns to a closed canopy. Soon after returning to the dense forest, the trail climbs steeply as it makes its way up the Feldtmann Ridge.

Occasionally, along the trail, the canopy melts away, and there are some outstanding views of Lake Feldtmann behind me. The large lake sits within a sea of trees, while in the far distance is Washington Island, with a sliver of Lake Superior separating the two. Scanning with my compact binoculars, I spot the Rock of Ages Lighthouse, the same lighthouse viewed earlier this morning at Rainbow Cove.

The trail forward weaves through a sea of knee-high brown grass, with a steep drop-off lined with a thin line of coniferous trees just off to the north. Typically, such a cliff begs for exploration, but given my late start this morning, there is no choice other than to restrict any unnecessary side trips. Although the tall grass appears thick at a distance, intermingled within is plenty of bare ground, some covered in dense clumps of lichen.

Stunning views abound behind me, the curvature of the Feldtmann Ridge in stark contrast to the Lake Superior in the far distance, a reminding me that I am on an island in the middle of one of the largest freshwater lakes in the world. In one corner of the view is a tiny portion of Feldtmann Lake, the vast majority of it hidden from view by the higher portions of the ridge.

Feldtmann Lake

Feldtmann Ridge

While hiking through the sea of grass along the ridge, I catch glimpses of the Feldtmann Tower in the distance, sticking above the tree canopy on a higher elevation portion of the ridge. Obviously, there is still some more climbing in store for me before reaching the tower, and lunch.

The now familiar, Isle Royale ridge regime, continues with higher elevation, open ridges followed by dips into mostly forested areas, before ascending back up to an open ridge again. The ridges are largely grass filled, and narrow with coniferous forests encroaching on both sides. The trail segments through the forest consist mainly of paper birch and yellow birch trees, despite white pine and white spruce dominating the ridges.

Feldtmann Ridge to the west

Feldtmann Ridge

Bird life is scarce on the Feldtmann Ridge, and the diversity is low, with only a couple species appearing with any frequency. White-throated sparrows fly off in all directions as I follow the trail through the frequent open ridges. Cedar waxwings are equally common around the forest edges, just before the trail descends back into the closed-canopy forest.

Shortly after one in the afternoon, I hike past a wetland, with many cattails and other emergent vegetation surrounding a small, open pool of water. The plentiful green vegetation suggests this area is naturally wet, but perhaps the vegetation is taking over due to the very dry summer. A dried clump of what I believe to be old moose scat lays undisturbed at the edge of the trail nearby. I scan the clearing in the hope of spotting another moose, but to no avail. Apparently, I am all moosed-out.

Shortly after passing the wetland, the trail descends and crosses a small stream before ascending back into a birch forest. The birch forest dominates for some distance, as the trail gradually ascends toward the fire tower.

Wetland

Open water at wetland

Suddenly, the birch forest transitions to an area dominated with hawthorn shrubs. The twisted hawthorns are so regularly spaced to appear as if planted, though this is highly unlikely. The shrubs do not last long, as the trail quickly reenters the birch forest.

While hiking through the forest, I spot a pileated woodpecker on a snag further up the trail. I switch immediately into stealth mode, creeping along the trail, trying to avoid making even the most innocuous of sounds. Unfortunately, I am less than successful in this endeavor. Although I sneak up fairly close, it flies off before I extricate my camera from its case at my hipbelt. I do get an exceptional view of it flying through the forest as it retreats from me though.

The trail exits the forest again, returning to the hawthorn-dominated scrub. The lack of leaves on many of the hawthorn shrubs gives the entire area a spooky appearance; I half expect something fierce and supernatural to jump out from behind each shrub along the trail as I approach. Luckily, the trolls must be busy elsewhere.

Feldtmann Ridge

Hawthorn orchard

Suddenly, the fire tower appears just above the shrub canopy in front of me, indicating there is just a little more climbing before I finally reach it, and get a reward of lunch. The trail continues to weave through the hawthorns, although the shrubs are smaller and more scattered now. A Cooper’s hawk flies through over the shrubs and distracts me, just as I approach the fire tower.

Upon finally arriving at the fire tower, I drop my backpack, put my camera and binoculars around my neck and climb the metal stairs. Unfortunately, the locked door at the top of the stairs stymies my desire to gain access, so I must be satisfied with the views from the stairs.

Even on the stairs, I am well above the surrounding trees and shrubs, giving me a complete 360-degree view of almost the entire southwestern portion of Isle Royale. Although the scaffolding impairs my view in some directions, moving around to different locations on the stairs usually provides an improvement.

Feldtmann Ridge Trail west from tower

Feldtmann Ridge Trail east from tower

Lake Superior and Feldtmann Lake are visible to the west, while Siskiwit Bay and a portion of Lake Halloran are clearly visible to the east. Wetlands surround the Big Siskiwit River above the treetops to the north, with the Greenstone Ridge rising well beyond. The stiff wind makes it difficult to stay up on the fire tower for long, not to mention stand still while taking photographs.

Upon reaching the ground, I sit in the shade of the tower and eat a long overdue lunch at around 2:30 in the afternoon. Although I try to keep my lunchtime limited, as I am yet half way to Siskiwit Bay, I still find the time to dry out my sore, blistered feet.

Siskiwit Bay from Feldtmann Tower

Siskiwit Bay from Feldtmann Tower

Feldtmann Lake from Tower

It is going to be necessary to step up the pace after lunch, if I plan to cover the 5.5 miles left to go before evening. Plus, that Foster’s Lager is not getting another day’s worth of a free ride. Drinking the beer during lunch is tempting, but since it is downhill for the next mile, I decide to make it wait until I am standing on the shore of Siskiwit Bay.

I cannot wait! Can you?

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