Lake Richie

A good deal of my hike along the Indian Portage Trail is now behind me, and I stand at the portage to LeSage Lake while still early in the day with an important decision to make. Do I head back to LeSage Lake for a quick look or just head south to Lake Richie and finally arrive at Moskey Basin early in the afternoon? Sometimes there are too many good options on Isle Royale.

Since the sun ruined any opportunity to get any photographs of LeSage Lake at the last portage, I ascend to the top of a ridge separating the main trail from the lake. Immediately upon reaching the top of the ridge, the trail descends directly to the shore of the lake. I imagine the steep up and down is an exhausting end of a half-mile portage for those arriving from Lake Richie off to the south.

LeSage Lake is an oddly shaped lake, broken into two sections by a thin ridge with a low point in the middle. The low point forms a channel connecting the two differently shaped sections. The northern section stretches out thin and long, while the southerly one is more oval. A small, thin island, perhaps another ridge remnant, lies along the northern shore of the southern portion of the lake. The portage ends about halfway along the southern shore, opposite of the connecting channel, with the island off to the west.

Dense aquatic rushes surround the lake access at the portage’s end, as they do along most of the shoreline, though they are especially pervasive along the southern shore. These attractive plants grow nearly three feet high in some locations, suggesting optimal growing condition at LeSage Lake. This vegetation forms a nearly impenetrable barrier between the shoreline and the open water, providing an ideal shelter for all types of critters. At least I imagine it is an ideal shelter, since it is difficult to see anything within the closely packed stems.

Section Stats:
Date: September 10, 2011
Length: 3.6 miles (6.0 total daily miles; 107.0 total trip miles)
Difficulty: Easy

Directly across the lake from my position is the western half of the rocky ridge separating the two sections of the lake, the bare rock leading right down to the shoreline. The ridge looks so inviting I wish I bushwhacked to it when I came over from Lake Livermore. Doubling back is too much effort now, especially given the over ten miles I plan to do tomorrow, plus the sun would be back in my eyes again over there until probably mid-afternoon.

On the other side of this bare rock ridge is the northern portion of the lake, the part of the lake that the morning sunshine obscured earlier. It is difficult to visualize this based on my position along the southern shore though. An equally difficult to discern island lies between the ridge and me as well. Off to the northeast, a beaver lodge is present on the opposite shore, although there is not a single beaver swimming around now.

Leaving LeSage Lake behind and returning to the main trail, I continue south, ascending steeply onto the top of another ridge. The trail levels out for a short distance before steeply descending through younger spruce/fir forest. The sparkling water of Lake Richie appears through the trees during the descent, drawing closer until reaching an intersection with a short portage trail down to the lake’s shoreline.

I descend the short distance down to the Lake Richie’s shoreline to take in a view of the lake. Lake Richie is an oddly shaped medium-sized inland lake, with several islands of varying size, and an undulating shoreline producing a few peninsulas. A wide channel leads off to the south, terminating at a stream that flows another mile to Chippewa Harbor, along Isle Royale’s southern shoreline. This lake, like the three others visited today, is on an important paddle route, and thus contains two campgrounds, one exclusively for canoeists.

LeSage Lake

LeSage Lake

Open ridge between LeSage Lake sections

LeSage Lake

When I approach the shoreline, a common loon swims out on the lake just a short distance from shore, seemingly unperturbed by my presence. Yet, it remains close by, curious about my presence, or perhaps watching over a nest or young chick nearby. Placing a nest near a portage trail would be bad move, but I have seen birds do much worse before.

Across from the portage and to the west is a large peninsula, where the Lake Richie Canoe campground is located on its opposite side. Off to the east is Hastings Island, the largest of the lake’s several islands. Densely packed mature coniferous trees cover both the island and peninsula, making the view of Lake Richie an especially attractive one.

Loon on Lake Richie

Rejoining the main trail, I continue east, following along the lake’s northern shore, although quite a distance upslope. The slope is steep, with the sparkling water seemingly just below me, albeit a significant distance down. Often I am looking through the treetops of spruce and/or fir to capture a view of Lake Richie with my camera.

The trail retreats back into the coniferous forest, the lake vanishing from sight, even though I know it is just a short distance to the south. The trail winds through a wet area for a while before finally returning closer to the lake’s shoreline.

The trail continues over many open rocky outcroppings as it continues following Lake Richie’s northern shoreline. Many views of the lake are available at the outcropping due to trees finding bare rock an inhospitable environment for germination. I make use of these breaks in the trees by taking numerous photographs of the lake and its many islands with my camera.

While climbing down from one of the rocky outcroppings, a couple is just beginning to climb up from the opposite direction. I backed off the trail a little, barking out a strained “good morning” to diffuse any chance of surprise. My effort is for naught unfortunately, as the young woman lets out a startled, loud but short gasp in surprise.

Main peninsula of Lake Richie

Lake Richie

The couple appear especially fresh in their brightly-colored spandex clothing, especially in contrast to my filthy tan, loose-fitting, well-worn hiking clothes, veterans of many a bushwhacking adventure. If I had to guess, I would say they took a water taxi to Moskey Basin, hiking only a mere couple of miles this morning so far. I allow them a wide berth, given my extremely dirty and smelly condition (laundry and bathing being last done back at Windigo), and they graciously move on quickly with not much as a word. Smart people.

The trail continues alternating between being in the forest or on rocky outcropping until passing Hastings Island, when I enter a strip of bare rock bordered by forest on two sides. The bare rock acts as giant, natural stair steps leading down to the water’s edge, while in the other direction the stairs continue up and over a low ridge. A signpost indicates the Lake Richie Campground is located along the ridge top, a good distance off the main trail, and unfortunately far away from the lake.

Lake Richie near campground

Lake Richie's northeastern shore

Lake Richie

Lake Richie

Feeling nature’s urge, I journey up to the periphery of the campground to use the toilet. The one camping site I pass is in the open, with almost full exposure to the sun. The surrounding area contains many downed aspen trees, with several standing aspens in poor condition and an occasional balsam fir scattered about. The area has a scrubby appearance, making this one of the less attractive campgrounds I have visited while on the Island. The toilet’s lack of use suggests other visitors share my opinion.

Bird life is plentiful in the area. I observe three palm warblers and a red-breasted nuthatch along the edge of the forest, while a broad-winged hawk soars far overhead, calling occasionally. Nearby, a blue jay, black-capped chickadee, golden-crowned kinglet and hairy woodpecker call within the surrounding forest, perhaps in panicked response to the hawk’s whistle.

Tip-up along Lake Richie's northern shore

When I return from the campground area and approach the lake, I notice a berry-infested wolf scat, nearly in the middle of the main trail. Given all the tracks along the trail since the Greenstone Ridge, wolves appear more active in this area than anywhere else on the Island I have visited thus far. My observation is borne out by a recent report indicating the largest wolf pack on Isle Royale is active in this area. Too bad I have yet to be lucky enough to see, or hear one.

Despite the attractive view of Lake Richie, I decide to push on to Moskey Basin before eating my lunch. It is only 2.5 additional miles, and it is just a little past noon; I should be able to get to Moskey within an hour. Once there I can relax and maybe do some laundry before finally having my lunch.

As I continue along the trail near the shore, the terrain stays much as before, plenty of open bare rock interspersed with tall aspens forming a sparse overstory and many balsam firs regenerating in the understory. Frequent view of Lake Richie makes this a very attractive section of trail.

I pass another couple going in the opposite direction, much as I had before reaching Lake Richie. They look rather fresh and clean too. Or, is it that I am just so filthy by comparison? I step off the trail again, and they pass with a “hello” and a “thank you.” As the very attractive young woman passes, I breathe in deeply, savoring her fresh scent. Boy, does she smell good.

That proves it. I definitely have been out in the backcountry way too long. It is probably a good thing my trip only has a couple more days left, or I might not be able to acclimate to civilization without professional help when I finally return.

Island on Lake Richie

Eastern end of Lake Richie

With the ephemeral pleasant scent fading, my mind returns to the task at hand of getting to Moskey Basin in time for some badly needed personal hygiene. I continue along on the trail to the point where it leaves the eastern edge of Lake Richie. On a nearby tree limb, a backpack hangs, while nearby an oar is propped up against a tree trunk, indicating a portage in process. I wonder whether the paddlers are going to Moskey Basin or coming to Lake Richie. Either way, I am likely to encounter them along the trail at some point. I just hope one of them is NOT a freshly smelling attractive woman.

Soon I reach an intersection within an open area, with bare rock and grassy patches scattered amongst forested areas of tall aspens and young spruces and firs. The trail to the south continues for another four miles, ending at Chippewa Harbor along the southern shore of the island. My way is straight ahead on the Lake Richie Trail toward Moskey Basin, only slightly more than two miles away now.

In about an hour, I will only have one full day of hiking on Isle Royale left.

Struggling paddlers on long portage

After continuing through the same habitat as around the intersection for about halfway to Moskey Basin, I observe two middle-aged men struggling with a very large, aluminum canoe along the trail. They gladly stop and chat with me for a while, sweat pouring down their faces due to their past efforts. When I inquire about the backpack and oar at Lake Richie, their faces light up with relief, as they scared off a red fox hanging around just before they left the equipment behind.

Drats, foiled again! I would really like to see one of these legendary red foxes of Isle Royale before I am done. Jim DuFresne’s book on Isle Royale seemed to indicate red foxes were common pests at the campgrounds, but after thirteen days on the Island, I had yet to see a single one.

The two would-be portagers stayed at Moskey Basin last night, and got the last shelter around 4:30 PM yesterday. This time I am the one showing relief, since there is still hope for me getting a shelter this afternoon. This is important for getting an early start in the morning, which I greatly need given the overly ambitious hike planned for tomorrow. My relief does not last long though, as they notify me that the weather report for Monday is for stormy weather. Will I have to endure another rough voyage across Lake Superior on the way out too?

Lake Richie Trail near Moskey Basin

I bid my paddling pals ado, and continue through the open habitat along the trail. Scattered tall aspens with young conifers growing underneath continue as well, almost all the way to the next intersection. Slowly the aspens and dense conifers encroach upon the scrubby open areas until the trail enters a very dense young conifer forest, followed shortly by the intersection with the Moskey Basin Campground spur trail.

Straight ahead is the Rock Harbor Trail, the beginning of tomorrow’s route back to Daisy Farm, the Greenstone Ridge and eventually Rock Harbor. For now, it is off to Moskey Basin to judge all the hype. And, time permitting, some backcountry laundry and personal hygiene.

Maybe tomorrow morning, I will be the fresh-smelling hiker that other people stop and breathe in deeply upon passing. One can dream, right?

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