View of Lake Superior from Grace Creek Outlook

Brrrr! C-c-c-old, very c-c-c-old.

The morning of my eighth day on Isle Royale is absolutely freezing. Or, at least, very close to it.

Sometime in the night, I put on nearly all my clothes, just as I did the night before. Even fully ensconced in the typically warm-enough Highlite sleeping bag, with almost every piece of clothing I brought for the trip on, I am still uncomfortably cold. Especially, my poor abused feet. Obviously, blisters were not enough.

When I attempt to check my tiny thermometer, it is so hard to maneuver with all my clothes on within the sleeping bag; I put it off for a little while longer. And longer. When I finally get to the little plastic thermometer, I swear it reads around 38 degrees Fahrenheit. No wonder I am freezing in all my summer equipment. It is almost cold enough to snow!

The extreme cold puts an end to my plan for a very early morning start. I linger much longer, not wanting to expose myself to the cold air. When I master the courage to emerge finally from my chrysalis, it takes me much longer to do anything. Although it should be second nature by now, just packing up my sleeping equipment takes a tremendous effort, with my hands, feet and just about everything else quickly becoming frozen and numb. Trying to tape up the resupply box in this cold makes me wish I had done so the previous night when I had a chance.

Section Stats:
Date: September 5, 2011
Length: 2.3 miles (2.3 total daily miles; 53.1 total trip miles)
Difficulty: Moderate

After breakfast, I do my last minute packing, and clean-up the campsite, including sweeping out the shelter. The Foster’s beer can gets a free ride in the backpack’s side pouch with my Platypus collapsible water bottle, since drinking in this chilly atmosphere is not damn likely. That means another couple of pounds to haul over the next ten miles or so, even if this afternoon warms up. And, if the cold holds for a few days, ugh, I do not even want to think about it.

I take my time as I walk to the Windigo Ranger Station from my shelter for the last time. Before proceeding to the Ranger Station, I stop to throw out my garbage bag from the previous week in one of the trashcans at the bottom of the hill. A new, old, bread bag from my resupply box shall function as my garbage bag for the second half of my trip. The Voyager II remains docked, but it must be getting close to departure, as there is a group of people anxiously mulling about.

With my resupply box tucked underneath my arm, I climb the hill up to the Ranger Station to hand it off for its journey back to Syracuse. I find the ever-helpful Cindy Crosby as the ranger on shift this morning. While we chat, she verifies the temperature was in the low 40’s at the Ranger Station this morning, and that it is typically lower down at the Washington Creek Campground. My thermometer was accurate, after all. Finally, I thank her for all her help and bid her farewell.

It is half-past ten in the morning before I reach the start of the Feldtmann Lake Trail, and I am still attired in my full-array of clothing. I cannot seem to get warm, so I refuse to shed a single piece of clothing until there is at least a threat of sweating. If that ever happens.

I keep a fast pace as I start down the trail, attempting to generate some heat quickly. A short distance down the trail is an intersection with a spur trail down to the seaplane dock. This floating plastic dock is where those travelling by seaplane first set foot on Isle Royale. It offers some beautiful views of Washington Harbor, with Beaver Island located to the southwest.

And so begins the Feldtmann Lake Trail

As I return to the main trail, the Voyager II’s horn blows, apparently to announce its imminent departure. The Feldtmann Lake Trail continues to hug the Washington Harbor shoreline, sometimes offering beautiful views of the harbor, while other times separating me from the water by a thin line of trees. My eyes frequently scan the harbor in hope of seeing the ferry’s departure.

Warmth begins to flow over me as I pass the intersection with the nature trail. By the time I reach the point where the trail starts drifting away from the shoreline, I am warm enough to strip off my long underwear. Luckily, I conclude my change by the time the Voyager II comes around the far side of Beaver Island, or the occupants would get a free showing.

I photograph the ferry as it rounds Beaver Island on its voyage around the northern shore of Isle Royale to its final destination for the night, Rock Harbor. This ferry circumnavigates the island every other day, making it a convenient way to travel around the island and set-up a one-way hike across the island. After staying in Rock Harbor tonight, it will return to Windigo tomorrow afternoon, before heading back to Grand Portage, Minnesota.

Watching the ferry depart spurs me into thinking about my own feelings when I finally depart from the island in another week. I quickly replace these melancholy thoughts with more joyful ones as soon as I return to my hike. It is amazing what progress and exercise can do to change one’s mental attitude.

Voyager II coming around Beaver Island

Voyager II begins its journey

Only a short distance further and the trail does more than veer away from the harbor, as it makes a sharp turn and begins to climb through a mixed forest with a significant yellow birch component. A few short switchbacks climb quickly to the top of a ridge where the forest opens up more. Although yellow birch is still present, paper birch and white spruce now play more of a role within the forest.

The open nature of the forest allows the rays of the sun to penetrate the forest floor, giving birth to lush ground level vegetation. Bunchberry, largeleaf aster (a popular toilet paper on the island back in the day according to a display at Windigo), wood fern, bluebead lily, wild sarsaparilla, Solomon’s seal (or one of its many lookalikes) and others are abundant here.

When the trail reaches the top of the ridge, the forest opens up even more, with scattered open areas of knee-high brown grass interspersed with bare soil and/or rock. According to DuFresne’s book, this short ridge is the western remnant of the Greenstone Ridge. Since my National Geographic map indicates the trail quickly descends back into lower lying forest for the remainder of the way to Feldtmann Lake, I take my time admiring the view of Isle Royale’s southwestern corner as I slowly hike along.

Forest near open ridge

Diverse herbaceous vegetation along trail

The view does not captivate me so that I miss a subtle trail within the tall, dry grass. This short, unmarked side trail leads through a series of clearings, bordered by trees to what I initially believe is Grace Creek Overlook. This turns out not to be the case. Nonetheless, the views here are very impressive. An open pond lies within an expansive grassy wetland, surrounded by coniferous forest, lies way below the ridge to the south. Off to the southwest, I can even see glimpses of Lake Superior.

Returning to the main trail, I continue along through the open ridge with frequent views of Grace Creek, Lake Superior and the surrounding coniferous forests and wetlands. When the trail starts to descend a little, I stop briefly and hear voices back in the direction I came.

Finally, I arrive at the real side trail to Grace Creek Outlook. This outlook has much more extensive views from its rocky cliff than did the previous one. The wetland surrounding Grace Creek lies below me surrounded in a forest of conifers, slowly giving way to hardwoods trees with an increase in distance from the creek. In the middle of the wetland is a pool of open water, surrounded by herbaceous vegetation. I scan the wetland with my binoculars looking for moose, but I see none.

View from ridge

Grace Creek wetland

Feldtmann Ridge lies in the distance to the south; tomorrow’s hiking route eagerly awaiting my arrival, no doubt. Supposedly, the Feldtmann Fire Tower is visible from my current location, but no matter how much scanning I do with my Leica 8×20 binoculars, I am unable to find it. I hope it is easier to find tomorrow.

Off to the southwest, lies Lake Superior. Cumberland Point is visible jutting out far into the lake with Rainbow Cove beyond to the southeast. According to Brad (the father of the family I met along the Minong Ridge Trail), this cove is a beautiful place, and a must-see when staying at Feldtmann Lake Campground. If I arrive at Feldtmann Lake early enough today, I plan to hike the short distance to judge for myself.

Unfortunately, it is still not warm enough to create a thirst for that Foster’s beer. Hopefully, that will change by the time I reach Feldtmann Lake, or it is another day of carrying it, up and over the Feldtmann Ridge tomorrow. It has to get warm enough to drink it before Rock Harbor, right?

Open water along Grace Creek

Grace Creek

The contrast between the brown grass before me, the sparkling blue water to the southwest and the dark green forest to the south is breathtaking. Although this is an ideal place to stop for lunch, it is still a little early given my hike only started a couple hours before. For now, it is best for me to continue and descend off the ridge down into the extensive forest lying before me to the south before stopping for a bite to eat.

And Feldtmann Lake awaits…

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